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Fence
Fencing is very controversial. We chose the 2" x 4" no-climb fencing. We used 4' height in all the pastures except for the males, where we
chose 5'. All have a top rail, and all are supported by chain link poles. We've seen the lodge pole style, and it looks great, but for durability
and maintenance, we decided on galvanized poles instead. The gates are made of the same materials. By purchasing in bulk, our cost was
cut down considerably.
There are several other options for fencing. We decided on the no-climb type because we did not want the crias to figure out how to
escape into another pasture during the night, as might happen with horse fencing. The no-climb also allowed an unobstructed view from
the highway (good marketing!).
Pictured Left: Wide aisles connecting the pastures make it easy to move alpacas from one area to another. Gates are the same width as
the aisles, allowing the aisles to function as catch pens. Using the gates, one person can move large groups of animals single-handedly.
We placed gates at the top and bottom of each of these pastures, thinking that we would need access from either end. We also placed
gates between each pasture, so we would not have to walk up to the aisle every time we wanted to get from one pasture to another. The
one thing that was told to me early on, were GATES, GATES, and MORE GATES! You can never have enough gates.
Two things determined the size of our gates. One was the width of the aisle, so when you opened one gate, it actually closed off the rest of
the aisle. The second concern was for equipment. We had to figure how wide our tractor was, how sharply it turned, so it could be moved
in and out of the pastures.
Three more pastures were designed opposite the aisle. One is used as a quarantine lot, the second is our breeding area, and the third,
which is closest to the house, is our "cria watch" pasture. This is where the new moms are placed for the first three to four days with their
crias. We took extra measures in this layout, making sure that the visiting alpacas did not have nose to nose contact with the existing herd.
We did this by placing a small pasture between the two. Again, mostly the distance the sprinkler head would throw determined the size.
Our male pasture is at the complete opposite side of the ranch. We used the 5' no-climb fencing here, along with top rail, since we knew
that boys would be boys, and might want to jump up on the fence from time to time. The male lot has a very limited view of any other
pasture for obvious reasons.
Most types of fences will do for alpacas who are not prone to escaping the way goats or dogs sometimes are but don't use barbed wire
and remember, there is almost no fence that a newborn cria cannot slip under or through. These should be watched carefully in the first
few days of their lives. The main purpose of your fence is to keep out dogs and other predators. If you have roaming dogs or even
coyotes, fence to keep them out. Let's begin with a discussion of the perimeter fence, as it is of primary importance. An alpaca's only
means of self-protection is to flee and we take that away from them by enclosing them in small spaces. Thus, a perimeter fence, which
provides adequate protection from predators, is a basic requirement. Generally, the perimeter fence is of woven wire (2x4 or no-climb is
preferred) with either barbed wire or electric wire along the exterior base to discourage digging. The barbed wire is put right along the
base of the fence, or you can also use a good layer of rock or gravel there. The electric wire is placed about 6 inches above the ground
level. Also on the exterior, we recommend an electric wire about 2 feet above the ground to discourage predators from climbing in. The
most effective electric box is the New Zealand variety, which packs a much greater punch than those routinely found in farm stores. The
only source (that I know of) for these boxes is from someone who installs high tensile electric fencing. In our area of central Virginia, the
primary predators are dogs, but we also have coyote, bear, and bobcats, which all pose a threat to alpacas. So, your perimeter fence
should be at least four feet in height, and higher is always better. Another method that I have heard mentioned is to have a radio set on
one of the talk stations which is left on all night. You may need several of these, in boxes for protection from the weather, stationed at
different points along your fence line. But, most importantly, protection of your alpacas from predators should be a primary concern when
setting up your environs.
Fencing is really more important in terms of keeping predators and unwanted visitors (deer, moose, elk etc. which all can carry
communicable diseases and parasites) out than keeping alpacas or llamas inside. If your pasture looks better than what is outside, they
walk right through any fence. Deer simply leap over. Fencing doesn’t exist in llamas or alpacas native South American environment so they
have no concept of a fence and rarely challenge them. Predators are, however, a serious issue and to a great degree will determine the
best fencing for your area. Refer to the predator control handout for more detailed information.
Fencing comes in many shapes and sizes. Beautiful white horse fencing is attractive but overkill in terms of cost and actually poor in terms
of deterring predator as it has large openings that coyote or loose or feral dogs can get through and that mountain lion and bear can
easily climb- not to mention inquisitive humans. If you have this or other types of existing wood fencing, it can be adapted by the installation
of electrified “hotwires” at key heights. Barbed wire is dangerous and damages fiber. Multi strand high tensile fencing (electrified or not) is
very popular with alpaca breeders. Typical height is 5’ with 5-7 strands varied in spacing- closer together at the bottom than the top. We,
however, are nervous with it as we’ve heard of too many horror stories where animals have gotten caught up in it and either hung
themselves or broken a leg so we prefer to not recommend it. Field or “no climb” fencing which is what we prefer is rapidly becoming the
design of choice as its cost is now similar to high tensile and has small openings nothing can get through and cannot be climbed. Either
type can be installed with wood, metal or fiberglass posts depending upon aesthetic appeal and your budget. It is critical that all gate
openings are as flush to their mounting posts as possible to again avoid any accidental hangings in between the gate, the post and the
securing mechanism. Remember that your fencing is only as good as the person who installs it.
The layout of fencing is as important as the type of fencing. Good layout design maximizes your existing pasture space which is particularly
important with small acreage if it is to be intensively grazed. The use of interior fence lines, multiple gates and chutes allows more animals
per acre to be grazed and facilitates the easy movement of animals from barn to pasture and pasture to pasture. At our farm, we had no
barn or fencing so everything had to be designed and built from the ground up. We spent 6 months researching both and playing with
many designs based upon what we had seen at other farms and our own ideas. We came up with the concept of ‘raceways’ to move
animals easily from one area to another- something we had not seen on alpaca farms. We got the idea from cattle and sheep farms where
chutes are used for shearing, loading and branding. We simply expanded the idea to a larger scale. Our fence contractor at first thought
we were crazy as it meant adding an additional fence line and a few gates. Later we visited some farms he had done after ours and noticed
raceways being employed. I’m now seeing the concept spreading all over.
Another service we offer is layout and design of fencing. We’ll be happy to help with your design or retrofit and this usually can be done
without a visit to your farm. A reasonably accurate map of the farm, pastures and buildings to scale is usually sufficient. If you just have
questions about shelter or fencing, our experience (including mistakes) and advice are always free. Give us a call or email us!
Occasionally you will hear about an alpaca or llama getting caught in traditional cow or field fencing. By cow fence, we mean the woven
wire that is 4 feet tall and has smaller holes on the bottom, gradually getting larger to 6 by 8 inch spaces as you move up to the top of the
fence. These spaces are large enough for the alpacas to put their heads through. Their long necks allow them to stick their head back
through another hole and they are trapped. This is a relatively rare occurrence, but if we were to put up new fence, we probably would
avoid using this type.
Another type of fencing that has become popular for livestock, is high tensile or New Zealand fencing. This is simply horizontal strands of
especially strong wire strung between posts. There are no vertical wires and the space between the horizontal wires can vary, as can the
number of wires making the fence taller or shorter. The wire can also be electrified.
While High Tensile is very reasonably priced, and relatively easy to install, it is less accepted by many raising livestock because of the risk
of entanglement. We have personally had to cut a white tailed deer out of our garden fence after it became entrapped and was slowly
electrocuted to death. The longer necks of the alpacas make them even more vulnerable, and therefore, we strongly discourage using
this type of fencing. If you do have high tensile, it is imperative that you check the tension to insure it being taught, to help minimize the
risk of animal injury. Many have used high tensile very successfully for alpacas, but we would strongly discourage its use.
A fence height of 5 feet is generally the rule with alpacas because they do have the ability to jump, but many folks use a 4 foot height.
Some dogs are capable of going over a 4 foot fence, but it is very unusual that they could go over a five foot. Usually it is an amorous
male that has the tendency to test fencing in search of a "date".
Board fencing is, without a doubt, the most aesthetically pleasing, but does little to guard against predators. It is possible to use board
fencing to divide interior pastures and use a more secure fence to form the perimeter. When money is not an obstacle, board fencing with
more secure fencing lining it is a pleasing compromise.
Fencing is very controversial. We chose the 2" x 4" no-climb fencing. We used 4' height in all the pastures except for the males, where we
chose 5'. All have a top rail, and all are supported by chain link poles. We've seen the lodge pole style, and it looks great, but for durability
and maintenance, we decided on galvanized poles instead. The gates are made of the same materials. By purchasing in bulk, our cost was
cut down considerably.
There are several other options for fencing. We decided on the no-climb type because we did not want the crias to figure out how to
escape into another pasture during the night, as might happen with horse fencing. The no-climb also allowed an unobstructed view from
the highway (good marketing!).
Pictured Left: Wide aisles connecting the pastures make it easy to move alpacas from one area to another. Gates are the same width as
the aisles, allowing the aisles to function as catch pens. Using the gates, one person can move large groups of animals single-handedly.
We placed gates at the top and bottom of each of these pastures, thinking that we would need access from either end. We also placed
gates between each pasture, so we would not have to walk up to the aisle every time we wanted to get from one pasture to another. The
one thing that was told to me early on, were GATES, GATES, and MORE GATES! You can never have enough gates.
Two things determined the size of our gates. One was the width of the aisle, so when you opened one gate, it actually closed off the rest of
the aisle. The second concern was for equipment. We had to figure how wide our tractor was, how sharply it turned, so it could be moved
in and out of the pastures.
Three more pastures were designed opposite the aisle. One is used as a quarantine lot, the second is our breeding area, and the third,
which is closest to the house, is our "cria watch" pasture. This is where the new moms are placed for the first three to four days with their
crias. We took extra measures in this layout, making sure that the visiting alpacas did not have nose to nose contact with the existing herd.
We did this by placing a small pasture between the two. Again, mostly the distance the sprinkler head would throw determined the size.
Our male pasture is at the complete opposite side of the ranch. We used the 5' no-climb fencing here, along with top rail, since we knew
that boys would be boys, and might want to jump up on the fence from time to time. The male lot has a very limited view of any other
pasture for obvious reasons.
Most types of fences will do for alpacas who are not prone to escaping the way goats or dogs sometimes are but don't use barbed wire
and remember, there is almost no fence that a newborn cria cannot slip under or through. These should be watched carefully in the first
few days of their lives. The main purpose of your fence is to keep out dogs and other predators. If you have roaming dogs or even
coyotes, fence to keep them out. Let's begin with a discussion of the perimeter fence, as it is of primary importance. An alpaca's only
means of self-protection is to flee and we take that away from them by enclosing them in small spaces. Thus, a perimeter fence, which
provides adequate protection from predators, is a basic requirement. Generally, the perimeter fence is of woven wire (2x4 or no-climb is
preferred) with either barbed wire or electric wire along the exterior base to discourage digging. The barbed wire is put right along the
base of the fence, or you can also use a good layer of rock or gravel there. The electric wire is placed about 6 inches above the ground
level. Also on the exterior, we recommend an electric wire about 2 feet above the ground to discourage predators from climbing in. The
most effective electric box is the New Zealand variety, which packs a much greater punch than those routinely found in farm stores. The
only source (that I know of) for these boxes is from someone who installs high tensile electric fencing. In our area of central Virginia, the
primary predators are dogs, but we also have coyote, bear, and bobcats, which all pose a threat to alpacas. So, your perimeter fence
should be at least four feet in height, and higher is always better. Another method that I have heard mentioned is to have a radio set on
one of the talk stations which is left on all night. You may need several of these, in boxes for protection from the weather, stationed at
different points along your fence line. But, most importantly, protection of your alpacas from predators should be a primary concern when
setting up your environs.
Fencing is really more important in terms of keeping predators and unwanted visitors (deer, moose, elk etc. which all can carry
communicable diseases and parasites) out than keeping alpacas or llamas inside. If your pasture looks better than what is outside, they
walk right through any fence. Deer simply leap over. Fencing doesn’t exist in llamas or alpacas native South American environment so they
have no concept of a fence and rarely challenge them. Predators are, however, a serious issue and to a great degree will determine the
best fencing for your area. Refer to the predator control handout for more detailed information.
Fencing comes in many shapes and sizes. Beautiful white horse fencing is attractive but overkill in terms of cost and actually poor in terms
of deterring predator as it has large openings that coyote or loose or feral dogs can get through and that mountain lion and bear can
easily climb- not to mention inquisitive humans. If you have this or other types of existing wood fencing, it can be adapted by the installation
of electrified “hotwires” at key heights. Barbed wire is dangerous and damages fiber. Multi strand high tensile fencing (electrified or not) is
very popular with alpaca breeders. Typical height is 5’ with 5-7 strands varied in spacing- closer together at the bottom than the top. We,
however, are nervous with it as we’ve heard of too many horror stories where animals have gotten caught up in it and either hung
themselves or broken a leg so we prefer to not recommend it. Field or “no climb” fencing which is what we prefer is rapidly becoming the
design of choice as its cost is now similar to high tensile and has small openings nothing can get through and cannot be climbed. Either
type can be installed with wood, metal or fiberglass posts depending upon aesthetic appeal and your budget. It is critical that all gate
openings are as flush to their mounting posts as possible to again avoid any accidental hangings in between the gate, the post and the
securing mechanism. Remember that your fencing is only as good as the person who installs it.
The layout of fencing is as important as the type of fencing. Good layout design maximizes your existing pasture space which is particularly
important with small acreage if it is to be intensively grazed. The use of interior fence lines, multiple gates and chutes allows more animals
per acre to be grazed and facilitates the easy movement of animals from barn to pasture and pasture to pasture. At our farm, we had no
barn or fencing so everything had to be designed and built from the ground up. We spent 6 months researching both and playing with
many designs based upon what we had seen at other farms and our own ideas. We came up with the concept of ‘raceways’ to move
animals easily from one area to another- something we had not seen on alpaca farms. We got the idea from cattle and sheep farms where
chutes are used for shearing, loading and branding. We simply expanded the idea to a larger scale. Our fence contractor at first thought
we were crazy as it meant adding an additional fence line and a few gates. Later we visited some farms he had done after ours and noticed
raceways being employed. I’m now seeing the concept spreading all over.
Another service we offer is layout and design of fencing. We’ll be happy to help with your design or retrofit and this usually can be done
without a visit to your farm. A reasonably accurate map of the farm, pastures and buildings to scale is usually sufficient. If you just have
questions about shelter or fencing, our experience (including mistakes) and advice are always free. Give us a call or email us!
Occasionally you will hear about an alpaca or llama getting caught in traditional cow or field fencing. By cow fence, we mean the woven
wire that is 4 feet tall and has smaller holes on the bottom, gradually getting larger to 6 by 8 inch spaces as you move up to the top of the
fence. These spaces are large enough for the alpacas to put their heads through. Their long necks allow them to stick their head back
through another hole and they are trapped. This is a relatively rare occurrence, but if we were to put up new fence, we probably would
avoid using this type.
Another type of fencing that has become popular for livestock, is high tensile or New Zealand fencing. This is simply horizontal strands of
especially strong wire strung between posts. There are no vertical wires and the space between the horizontal wires can vary, as can the
number of wires making the fence taller or shorter. The wire can also be electrified.
While High Tensile is very reasonably priced, and relatively easy to install, it is less accepted by many raising livestock because of the risk
of entanglement. We have personally had to cut a white tailed deer out of our garden fence after it became entrapped and was slowly
electrocuted to death. The longer necks of the alpacas make them even more vulnerable, and therefore, we strongly discourage using
this type of fencing. If you do have high tensile, it is imperative that you check the tension to insure it being taught, to help minimize the
risk of animal injury. Many have used high tensile very successfully for alpacas, but we would strongly discourage its use.
A fence height of 5 feet is generally the rule with alpacas because they do have the ability to jump, but many folks use a 4 foot height.
Some dogs are capable of going over a 4 foot fence, but it is very unusual that they could go over a five foot. Usually it is an amorous
male that has the tendency to test fencing in search of a "date".
Board fencing is, without a doubt, the most aesthetically pleasing, but does little to guard against predators. It is possible to use board
fencing to divide interior pastures and use a more secure fence to form the perimeter. When money is not an obstacle, board fencing with
more secure fencing lining it is a pleasing compromise.
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