| Good Shepherd Farm Alpacas is owned by Chris & Rebecca Arnold. Copyright 2005-2008. All rights reserved. Website powered by Yahoo! |
Husbandry (care)
For the saftey and well-being of an alpaca, it is very important that owners have at least two alpacas, never just one. Alpacas are herd
animals and do not do well if they do not have another alpaca companion.
Many alpaca owners utilize different methods to accomplish the same thing. This does not make them right or wrong, only different.
Housing, pasture, feeding, worming, and inoculations will vary depending upon the individual circumstances, as well as by region.
Daily Walk
Routine care won't take a great deal of your time, but alpacas do require routine servicing! My daily chores consist of feeding, watering,
and picking up the poop. I choose to feed twice a day because I like to. However, once a day is fine. My time spent at the barn is pure
pleasure -- Hutch has even offered to move my bed into a spare stall!
Monthly
You will also need to trim the alpacas' toenails. You can use a regular pair of small garden shears for this. Your alpaca cannot walk well
with overgrown toenails and they could also get an infection or injury from lack of toenail care. We also look into the ears of each alpaca
each month to check for ticks. We like to weigh each alpaca as well, but you can also run your hand down the back to judge if the alpaca is
over or underweight or close to perfect. This is called "body scoring." While a livestock scale is optional, a cria (baby alpaca)
scale is a must. You really need to make sure that babies are putting on weight after the first 24 hours.
Yearly
All alpacas should be shorn once a year in the spring! We get many calls each year from people who have not made plans to have their
alpacas shorn until it is summer and then they finally realize that most shearers will not shear in the summer. It is very dangerous to shear
a heat stressed animal because you are adding to the stress by shearing it. If you have trouble finding a shearer or don't have equipment,
do it yourself with scissors but no alpaca should ever go through the summer in full fleece! Our shearing customers often make their
appointments one year in advance.
There are a number of pellets manufactured for llamas and alpacas specifically. In our area we generally supplement with pellets. Further
west, where the hay is of better quality, you can get by with only supplementing your late pregnant and nursing females. Mazuri, Buckeye,
and Southern States lama pellets are all appropriate feed, and readily found. I particularly recommend the Southern States mix, if you can
get it. It is reasonably priced, and provides for the animals' complete nutritional needs. Dr Norm Evans has a pellet mixture which is also
quite complete and is produced by Agway, Blue Seal, and some others. Dr. Evan's mixture has become more widely available in recent
years, but is a more costly feed. In addition to pellets, you will need to offer clean hay, either orchard grass hay or a mixture of orchard
grass and alfalfa. Pure alfalfa hay is too rich in calcium and protein and will cause an imbalance of nutrients, as well as fat animals. I
cannot speak as to which grasses make good hay in other areas of the country. You will need to look into what is available in your specific
area. Also, I like to offer a mineral mix, free choice. There are several products recommended for alpacas and may be purchased through
any of the camelid supply companies. And, of course, forage for grazing. I know that a number of farms will dry lot, but alpacas take great
pleasure in being able to walk about and browse in a pasture. I think it is a kindness to provide this for them.
We trim our alpaca's toenails, if needed, when we do monthly worming. The regularity of trimming does vary from animal to animal and
according to the surface they walk upon. We have grass pastures which don't wear the nails down, so most of our animals require a trim
every month or so. I recommend that you stay on top of this. An alpaca who does not get regular trimming may well develop curling
toenails - an unsightly feature indeed!
The only other routine care is during the hotter months, as these guys are subject to heat stroke. This is a particular problem in the east
where we have such high humidity along with high temperatures. You will need to provide shade and air movement for the hottest days.
We use large industrial fans in the barns, placing them low to cool the alpacas' bellies, and high just to keep the air circulating. Watching
the 'pacas hanging out in front of the fans, chewing their cud, will make you want to join the herd!
The most fun job for alpaca owners are hose parties. They get wet, you get wet, it's hard to tell who's having the most fun. Be sure to
spray their bellies only, not the blanket area. Imagine wearing a wet wool jacket out in the sun, and you'll appreciate the greenhouse effect
as that wet fiber tries to dry. Trust me, stick to the belly. In central Virginia, our summers can get pretty warm. I like to spray almost daily.
I'm not sure if it's because I like to, or because the alpacas want me to -- but we all have fun! I am experimenting with using sprinklers,
which seem to work well. This summer, I hope to add some misters over the concrete area behind the girls barn. As you can see, keeping
them cool does take some consideration!
Toenail Trimming
Trimming the toenails of alpacas is one of the regular alpaca maintenance items. The alpaca's foot consists of a heel which has no hoof
and two toes. Extending over the top ends of the toes are their toenails, and these will have to be trimmed on occasion. Some alpacas
require this only once a year at shearing, and others require it every month or two. It depends both on the alpaca and the surface they
walk on. We roughened the concrete floor of our barn to help keep them naturally trimmed, but there still are a few that require additional
pedicures. This procedure can easily be handled by the breeder perhaps with another person holding the haltered alpaca. Like a horse,
they can be trained to stand for this procedure.
Tooth Care
Alpacas have incisors only on the bottom jaw. They have molars, used for chewing their cud, in the back of their mouths. This means
that even if they were to bite (which they never do) with these incisors, they could not really hurt you. If the occlusion of the lower teeth to
the dental pad on the upper jaw is not correct, these lower incisors will not wear down properly. When they do not wear, they can become
longer and longer, and demand trimming. This is usually performed by a veterinarian, often with a bit of anesthetic to help keep the alpaca
relaxed. Some vets will use nippers to snip the tooth tip away, some will use a file, some an abrasive wire, and others might use an electric
rotary cutter. This procedure is only necessary every couple of years if at all.
As the male alpaca reaches sexual maturity, he develops canine teeth. We have never heard of any incident where a breeder has been
bitten with these, but, we suppose it may be possible. These are found in pairs on the top and bottom jaws in anywhere from one to 4
pairs. The males will use these as they spar, in an effort to emasculate each other, so they must be removed. Again a general anesthetic
may be used and the canines are cut off using any of the above mentioned methods. This is only done once or twice early in the male's
life after reaching sexual maturity. Gelded males usually do not grow canines, but this is dependant on when they are gelded. On
occasion, females will grow canines, but since they do not fight like the males do, they are left alone.
As alpacas age, wear and tear on their teeth can cause unevenness that will demand attention, for it can cause eating problems. The
procedure is called "floating" the teeth and is often done on older horses. Again some anesthesia is typically required and the molars are
filed by the veterinarian to even their surface and eliminate this problem.
Immunizations
As with all other forms of livestock, alpacas require protection against certain diseases. This protection is gained through the use of
injections. The most universal of these is an annual shot given for Tetanus Toxoid and Clostridium varieties C and D. Protection from
these 3 diseases is offered in one vaccination called CD/T. There are various manufacturers and it is available from farm stores and
through vet supply catalogs. You do not need a prescription to obtain it. This shot is given to alpacas 2 or 3 times in their first months and
then annually thereafter. While a veterinarian will come to give shots such as these, usually the breeder will learn to administer the routine
shots themselves. Fortunately, classes are often offered at shows or alpaca related events to teach proper injection techniques, or your
veterinarian or fellow breeder can show you.
Some regions of the country use an "8 Way" vaccine that offers CD/T as well as 5 other components. Others may want to add a rabies
vaccine and in states such as Ohio, this can only be administered by a veterinarian. There are some other inoculations that may be
appropriate to different areas of the country, so it is wise to check with a qualified local veterinarian about this or, at least, an experienced
local breeder.
Parasite Control
Parasites are common to all forms of livestock and alpacas are no exception. The parasites that they pick up are the same ones that are
seen in cows, sheep, and goats (other ruminants). There are many forms of treatment, from granules sprinkled on their food, to pastes
and liquids administered orally, to injectables. Unfortunately, no "wormer" covers all of the parasites that can affect alpacas, so usually a
combination will have to be used.
Any of the medications used to treat alpacas and llamas are considered "off label". This means that the use of these meds has not been
studied and approved for alpacas. It takes a great deal of research money to move medications and their dosages into an approved
status, so dosages are extrapolated from their use in other species, especially sheep and goats. Trial and error over the last 20 years has
improved our knowledge tremendously and veterinarians recommend using certain wormers without hesitation. Typically the dosages
guidelines are the same as those for goats or sheep, and determined by the weight of the animal. It is imperative that you check with an
experienced camelid Veterinarian or knowledgeable breeder before you implement a worming program, or administer any other
medications.
In our area, the biggest and most dangerous parasite threat to alpacas and llamas is the meningeal worm. This parasite has its life cycle
shared between the white tailed deer and slugs or snails. Alpacas can also be infected and while it is not a problem in the deer, it can be
fatal to alpacas. The alpacas ingest the eggs of the meningeal worm by accidentally consuming a snail or slug while grazing. Eventually
the matured worm will travel to the spinal cord of the infected animal and nibble away at the membranes and nerves. This can obviously
lead to problems with the neurological system. There is treatment once diagnosed, but infection can still be fatal, or the alpaca can show
the effects of infection even after cured. To the right is a diagrammatic representation of the meningeal worm life cycle from
www.llamapaedia.com.
From Dr. Stephen R. Purdy, DVM - Chester, Vermont:
Meningeal Worm - Diagnosis, Treatment, & Prevention
From Dr. David Anderson, DVM - Ohio State University
Meningeal Worm - Infection In Llamas & Alpacas
Throughout the summer months, we treat to prevent this parasite, but usually supplement the worming program with another wormer at the
end of the season after a good freeze, in order to eliminate the worms that the meningeal worm medication doesn't affect. As with the
administration of any medication, it is best to check with your Veterinarian first to guarantee that your parasite program will be effective.
Fortunately, alpacas do not seem to be prone to external parasites as much as sheep and goats are. Lice and scabies are not typically
problems, but there are parasitic controls for them and these come as injectables or topicals.
In our area ticks are also a problem from spring to mid summer. Tick paralysis is a reaction to the anticoagulants present in the tick
saliva. This will cause nervous system symptoms and can ultimately cause death if untreated. It is important to try to control ticks in your
pastures by keeping deer and other wild mammals out and brush down.
Flies can be especially annoying to all livestock, and alpacas are no exception. Pictured here is an "Amish" fly trap weighted down with
stones to keep it from blowing away. A liquid bait mixture rests underneath the wire mesh box. A piece of mesh shaped like a pyramid with
a how at its peak makes the floor of the pyramid. The flies attracted to the bait fly upward and then crawl through the hole and become
trapped. As we hope you can see from this photo, they are very effective at capturing flies, and we like this method as opposed to using
insecticides.
For the saftey and well-being of an alpaca, it is very important that owners have at least two alpacas, never just one. Alpacas are herd
animals and do not do well if they do not have another alpaca companion.
Many alpaca owners utilize different methods to accomplish the same thing. This does not make them right or wrong, only different.
Housing, pasture, feeding, worming, and inoculations will vary depending upon the individual circumstances, as well as by region.
Daily Walk
Routine care won't take a great deal of your time, but alpacas do require routine servicing! My daily chores consist of feeding, watering,
and picking up the poop. I choose to feed twice a day because I like to. However, once a day is fine. My time spent at the barn is pure
pleasure -- Hutch has even offered to move my bed into a spare stall!
Monthly
You will also need to trim the alpacas' toenails. You can use a regular pair of small garden shears for this. Your alpaca cannot walk well
with overgrown toenails and they could also get an infection or injury from lack of toenail care. We also look into the ears of each alpaca
each month to check for ticks. We like to weigh each alpaca as well, but you can also run your hand down the back to judge if the alpaca is
over or underweight or close to perfect. This is called "body scoring." While a livestock scale is optional, a cria (baby alpaca)
scale is a must. You really need to make sure that babies are putting on weight after the first 24 hours.
Yearly
All alpacas should be shorn once a year in the spring! We get many calls each year from people who have not made plans to have their
alpacas shorn until it is summer and then they finally realize that most shearers will not shear in the summer. It is very dangerous to shear
a heat stressed animal because you are adding to the stress by shearing it. If you have trouble finding a shearer or don't have equipment,
do it yourself with scissors but no alpaca should ever go through the summer in full fleece! Our shearing customers often make their
appointments one year in advance.
There are a number of pellets manufactured for llamas and alpacas specifically. In our area we generally supplement with pellets. Further
west, where the hay is of better quality, you can get by with only supplementing your late pregnant and nursing females. Mazuri, Buckeye,
and Southern States lama pellets are all appropriate feed, and readily found. I particularly recommend the Southern States mix, if you can
get it. It is reasonably priced, and provides for the animals' complete nutritional needs. Dr Norm Evans has a pellet mixture which is also
quite complete and is produced by Agway, Blue Seal, and some others. Dr. Evan's mixture has become more widely available in recent
years, but is a more costly feed. In addition to pellets, you will need to offer clean hay, either orchard grass hay or a mixture of orchard
grass and alfalfa. Pure alfalfa hay is too rich in calcium and protein and will cause an imbalance of nutrients, as well as fat animals. I
cannot speak as to which grasses make good hay in other areas of the country. You will need to look into what is available in your specific
area. Also, I like to offer a mineral mix, free choice. There are several products recommended for alpacas and may be purchased through
any of the camelid supply companies. And, of course, forage for grazing. I know that a number of farms will dry lot, but alpacas take great
pleasure in being able to walk about and browse in a pasture. I think it is a kindness to provide this for them.
We trim our alpaca's toenails, if needed, when we do monthly worming. The regularity of trimming does vary from animal to animal and
according to the surface they walk upon. We have grass pastures which don't wear the nails down, so most of our animals require a trim
every month or so. I recommend that you stay on top of this. An alpaca who does not get regular trimming may well develop curling
toenails - an unsightly feature indeed!
The only other routine care is during the hotter months, as these guys are subject to heat stroke. This is a particular problem in the east
where we have such high humidity along with high temperatures. You will need to provide shade and air movement for the hottest days.
We use large industrial fans in the barns, placing them low to cool the alpacas' bellies, and high just to keep the air circulating. Watching
the 'pacas hanging out in front of the fans, chewing their cud, will make you want to join the herd!
The most fun job for alpaca owners are hose parties. They get wet, you get wet, it's hard to tell who's having the most fun. Be sure to
spray their bellies only, not the blanket area. Imagine wearing a wet wool jacket out in the sun, and you'll appreciate the greenhouse effect
as that wet fiber tries to dry. Trust me, stick to the belly. In central Virginia, our summers can get pretty warm. I like to spray almost daily.
I'm not sure if it's because I like to, or because the alpacas want me to -- but we all have fun! I am experimenting with using sprinklers,
which seem to work well. This summer, I hope to add some misters over the concrete area behind the girls barn. As you can see, keeping
them cool does take some consideration!
Toenail Trimming
Trimming the toenails of alpacas is one of the regular alpaca maintenance items. The alpaca's foot consists of a heel which has no hoof
and two toes. Extending over the top ends of the toes are their toenails, and these will have to be trimmed on occasion. Some alpacas
require this only once a year at shearing, and others require it every month or two. It depends both on the alpaca and the surface they
walk on. We roughened the concrete floor of our barn to help keep them naturally trimmed, but there still are a few that require additional
pedicures. This procedure can easily be handled by the breeder perhaps with another person holding the haltered alpaca. Like a horse,
they can be trained to stand for this procedure.
Tooth Care
Alpacas have incisors only on the bottom jaw. They have molars, used for chewing their cud, in the back of their mouths. This means
that even if they were to bite (which they never do) with these incisors, they could not really hurt you. If the occlusion of the lower teeth to
the dental pad on the upper jaw is not correct, these lower incisors will not wear down properly. When they do not wear, they can become
longer and longer, and demand trimming. This is usually performed by a veterinarian, often with a bit of anesthetic to help keep the alpaca
relaxed. Some vets will use nippers to snip the tooth tip away, some will use a file, some an abrasive wire, and others might use an electric
rotary cutter. This procedure is only necessary every couple of years if at all.
As the male alpaca reaches sexual maturity, he develops canine teeth. We have never heard of any incident where a breeder has been
bitten with these, but, we suppose it may be possible. These are found in pairs on the top and bottom jaws in anywhere from one to 4
pairs. The males will use these as they spar, in an effort to emasculate each other, so they must be removed. Again a general anesthetic
may be used and the canines are cut off using any of the above mentioned methods. This is only done once or twice early in the male's
life after reaching sexual maturity. Gelded males usually do not grow canines, but this is dependant on when they are gelded. On
occasion, females will grow canines, but since they do not fight like the males do, they are left alone.
As alpacas age, wear and tear on their teeth can cause unevenness that will demand attention, for it can cause eating problems. The
procedure is called "floating" the teeth and is often done on older horses. Again some anesthesia is typically required and the molars are
filed by the veterinarian to even their surface and eliminate this problem.
Immunizations
As with all other forms of livestock, alpacas require protection against certain diseases. This protection is gained through the use of
injections. The most universal of these is an annual shot given for Tetanus Toxoid and Clostridium varieties C and D. Protection from
these 3 diseases is offered in one vaccination called CD/T. There are various manufacturers and it is available from farm stores and
through vet supply catalogs. You do not need a prescription to obtain it. This shot is given to alpacas 2 or 3 times in their first months and
then annually thereafter. While a veterinarian will come to give shots such as these, usually the breeder will learn to administer the routine
shots themselves. Fortunately, classes are often offered at shows or alpaca related events to teach proper injection techniques, or your
veterinarian or fellow breeder can show you.
Some regions of the country use an "8 Way" vaccine that offers CD/T as well as 5 other components. Others may want to add a rabies
vaccine and in states such as Ohio, this can only be administered by a veterinarian. There are some other inoculations that may be
appropriate to different areas of the country, so it is wise to check with a qualified local veterinarian about this or, at least, an experienced
local breeder.
Parasite Control
Parasites are common to all forms of livestock and alpacas are no exception. The parasites that they pick up are the same ones that are
seen in cows, sheep, and goats (other ruminants). There are many forms of treatment, from granules sprinkled on their food, to pastes
and liquids administered orally, to injectables. Unfortunately, no "wormer" covers all of the parasites that can affect alpacas, so usually a
combination will have to be used.
Any of the medications used to treat alpacas and llamas are considered "off label". This means that the use of these meds has not been
studied and approved for alpacas. It takes a great deal of research money to move medications and their dosages into an approved
status, so dosages are extrapolated from their use in other species, especially sheep and goats. Trial and error over the last 20 years has
improved our knowledge tremendously and veterinarians recommend using certain wormers without hesitation. Typically the dosages
guidelines are the same as those for goats or sheep, and determined by the weight of the animal. It is imperative that you check with an
experienced camelid Veterinarian or knowledgeable breeder before you implement a worming program, or administer any other
medications.
In our area, the biggest and most dangerous parasite threat to alpacas and llamas is the meningeal worm. This parasite has its life cycle
shared between the white tailed deer and slugs or snails. Alpacas can also be infected and while it is not a problem in the deer, it can be
fatal to alpacas. The alpacas ingest the eggs of the meningeal worm by accidentally consuming a snail or slug while grazing. Eventually
the matured worm will travel to the spinal cord of the infected animal and nibble away at the membranes and nerves. This can obviously
lead to problems with the neurological system. There is treatment once diagnosed, but infection can still be fatal, or the alpaca can show
the effects of infection even after cured. To the right is a diagrammatic representation of the meningeal worm life cycle from
www.llamapaedia.com.
From Dr. Stephen R. Purdy, DVM - Chester, Vermont:
Meningeal Worm - Diagnosis, Treatment, & Prevention
From Dr. David Anderson, DVM - Ohio State University
Meningeal Worm - Infection In Llamas & Alpacas
Throughout the summer months, we treat to prevent this parasite, but usually supplement the worming program with another wormer at the
end of the season after a good freeze, in order to eliminate the worms that the meningeal worm medication doesn't affect. As with the
administration of any medication, it is best to check with your Veterinarian first to guarantee that your parasite program will be effective.
Fortunately, alpacas do not seem to be prone to external parasites as much as sheep and goats are. Lice and scabies are not typically
problems, but there are parasitic controls for them and these come as injectables or topicals.
In our area ticks are also a problem from spring to mid summer. Tick paralysis is a reaction to the anticoagulants present in the tick
saliva. This will cause nervous system symptoms and can ultimately cause death if untreated. It is important to try to control ticks in your
pastures by keeping deer and other wild mammals out and brush down.
Flies can be especially annoying to all livestock, and alpacas are no exception. Pictured here is an "Amish" fly trap weighted down with
stones to keep it from blowing away. A liquid bait mixture rests underneath the wire mesh box. A piece of mesh shaped like a pyramid with
a how at its peak makes the floor of the pyramid. The flies attracted to the bait fly upward and then crawl through the hole and become
trapped. As we hope you can see from this photo, they are very effective at capturing flies, and we like this method as opposed to using
insecticides.
One thing that adds to the joy of raising and breeding alpacas is the ease of maintaining them, especially when compared to other
livestock. One person can easily do the required farm labor for a herd of 20 alpacas in just a couple of hours a day.
Daily maintenance involves giving the alpacas fresh water, making sure they have ample hay, feeding them grain if needed and the easy
cleanup of dung (alpacas make communal dung piles that are easily maintained in minutes a day.
a veterinarian to do it for them, if they don’t feel comfortable.
a veterinarian to do it for them, if they don’t feel comfortable.
The infrastructure needed to keep alpacas is fairly simple. For shelter alpacas should have, at a minimum, a three-sided shed facing away
from the prevailing wind with the ability to close it up during nasty weather. Alpacas also need a layer or bedding (hay or straw) when
things get wet and chilly. This is particularly important to new crias who don’t have as much fiber and might have more trouble staying
warm.
Fencing for alpacas has more to do with protecting the animals from outside intruders than it does keeping the herd confined. Domestic
dogs pose the greatest threat. Alpacas will respect fencing as simple as two strands of electric "hot tape". Unfortunately, predators seem
to need greater discouragement. There are many types of fencing, some involving an electric component and others not, though in the
case of the latter, it is generally wise to also use some sort of guard animal (llama, livestock guard dog or donkey) to add further
protection for the alpacas.
Alpacas are light consumers, eating the equivalent of just 25 pounds of hay. This means that it takes very little acreage to support a
sizable herd. Depending upon the quality of pasture, 1 acre can support 5 to 8 animals. The layout of interior fencing is therefore best set
up in a manner that will take advantage of this and allow for rotational grazing practices. This is accomplished by creating several different
subdivisions, or paddocks, within a given pasture. This provides for the best quality forage at any given time as well as giving the pasture
a chance to recover after heavy grazing. The fencing for interior paddocks can be done using temporary electric rope or hot tape that will
allow for changes in configuration as dictated by the growing season and the grazing habits of the herd.
livestock. One person can easily do the required farm labor for a herd of 20 alpacas in just a couple of hours a day.
Daily maintenance involves giving the alpacas fresh water, making sure they have ample hay, feeding them grain if needed and the easy
cleanup of dung (alpacas make communal dung piles that are easily maintained in minutes a day.
a veterinarian to do it for them, if they don’t feel comfortable.
a veterinarian to do it for them, if they don’t feel comfortable.
The infrastructure needed to keep alpacas is fairly simple. For shelter alpacas should have, at a minimum, a three-sided shed facing away
from the prevailing wind with the ability to close it up during nasty weather. Alpacas also need a layer or bedding (hay or straw) when
things get wet and chilly. This is particularly important to new crias who don’t have as much fiber and might have more trouble staying
warm.
Fencing for alpacas has more to do with protecting the animals from outside intruders than it does keeping the herd confined. Domestic
dogs pose the greatest threat. Alpacas will respect fencing as simple as two strands of electric "hot tape". Unfortunately, predators seem
to need greater discouragement. There are many types of fencing, some involving an electric component and others not, though in the
case of the latter, it is generally wise to also use some sort of guard animal (llama, livestock guard dog or donkey) to add further
protection for the alpacas.
Alpacas are light consumers, eating the equivalent of just 25 pounds of hay. This means that it takes very little acreage to support a
sizable herd. Depending upon the quality of pasture, 1 acre can support 5 to 8 animals. The layout of interior fencing is therefore best set
up in a manner that will take advantage of this and allow for rotational grazing practices. This is accomplished by creating several different
subdivisions, or paddocks, within a given pasture. This provides for the best quality forage at any given time as well as giving the pasture
a chance to recover after heavy grazing. The fencing for interior paddocks can be done using temporary electric rope or hot tape that will
allow for changes in configuration as dictated by the growing season and the grazing habits of the herd.
| Under Construction |